Shopping for Vintage

Shopping for vintage can be the modern fashionista's most gratifying, thrilling, exciting and satisfying experience. On the other hand, it can be the most overwhelming, time-intensive sometimes frustrating shopping trips! It is a labor of love. The best way to go about it is to have a plan; get into a state of mind. Don't approach a vintage store with the idea of shopping a department store- you will fail.

Evaluate Your Closet
Before setting out, take a good look at what you already own so-far-as modern pieces. Take a mental snapshot. Then think about your look; style is a lot about conveying your personality. Who are you projecting to others? What is your career/ profession? How do you feel when you wear certain things?

Then, get inspiration. Fashion mavens like Rachel Zoe and Rachel Bilson are big into combining vintage with modern. Polyvore is a fun website to customize looks. Vogue magazine is a tremendous resource if you're well versed at interpreting styles. 

Here is a list of my favorite things to shop for: (for the novices!)

• Skirts (pencil, circle styles are always easy to find, easy to fit and mix well with a new top)
• Handbags. Endless options.
• A really great necklace 
• Scarves! You can do so much with these, they always come in amazing patterns and are inexpensive.

Design a Circuit
Research vintage shops in your area and set aside an afternoon to hit a few up. The worst mistake when vintage shopping is to be short on time. You will never find the same item in each shop and each store has a different way of merchandising.  Get to know your favorites, and go often. Inventory is always changing and really amazing finds go fast. Shop as an experience, not a mission!

Open Your Mind
If you are looking for a specific item, chances are you'll get frustrated trying to find it. Keep an open mind.  If you're just getting used to the idea of wearing vintage, start with an accessory. Follow your taste; don't buy anything too trendy or it will just end up in the back of your closet.

If you spot a really great dress one size up or down but you're in love- buy it! A tailor can be your best friend and chances are you won't come across it again.  Remember, vintage pieces are pre-loved. A fantastic cashmere sweater missing a button? Re-vamp it and put all new, or better yet- vintage- buttons on it.

Talk to the Staff
Don't hesitate to ask questions about the garment's history or fabrication. ask for suggestions on what to wear it with. Many times, the person working there is in the business because they are passionate about clothes and eager to share their knowledge.  Examine things closely for loose seams, mold, moth holes, stains and tears.

Understand the Retail Market
Clothing is just not made today like it was even 40 years ago.   Knowing what you will pay at a department store for a dress of the same (or lesser) quality will make you not even think twice about dropping $85 on a vintage stunner. An added bonus is that you can be sure not to run into a woman wearing the same dress- gasp!

Truth is, fashion design has changed dramatically.  Quality fabrics have become scarce, or it is not appreciated as much in the mass market today . Trends turn over quickly, so there may not be as much value in using quality fabric and craftsmanship.  The kind of tailoring, fabrication and attention to detail seen in vintage can still be found today- but expect to pay a pretty penny.

These vintage Gucci boots scored for $99 at Circa Vintage!

 Bottom line: To customize your look, add a touch of the old world to your already fabulous wardrobe. You will have fun, it will be a hobby, you won't spend as much as department-or big box stores, and expect to be admired. The complements will roll, in which you can proudly say; "It's a vintage piece." Knowing there likely are few of the same.  You have something genuinely unique- which no one can run out to Anthropologie to score the same. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"Fashions fade, style is eternal." -YSL

Mr. Saint Laurent, 1969

" Fashions fade, style is enternal. "

-Yves Saint Laurent

 

Mary Katrantzou... Designer of the Future

photo courtesy of r1ma.blogspot.com

My across-the-pond accomplice in the Vintage Business, Janne recently sent me a link to London's Fashion Week style feed. It featured a designer newer to the scene, Mary Katranzou- may I add she is exactly my age- who's designs are heart stopping. No, really. How does this relate to vintage, you ask? Janne had a point about her being the future head of Chanel or Dior; with designs as truly innovative as hers. Katranzou's look is so fresh, futuristic and trendy that we can't help but to fast forward a glimpse in 50 years and remember her designs as iconic.

photo courtesy gallantandjonesblog.com

Sculpturally, nothing like this has been done; her prints sort of a trompé l'oeil of her Greek heritage.  Reminds me of Versace in the early 90s.  I also think that her designs will translate well to consumer fashion.  Pulling elements like the rosette sleeves on to a flouncy asymmetrical mesh skirt in a bright solid = killer cocktail dress, no? Or, look at those wonderful boxy shoulders on the dress, (above left) can't you see that installation on a tunic top, keyed down a bit?

So, going back to this relating to vintage? Katrantzou's designs are not timeless. However, either was Christian Dior's designs at the time he introduced the "new look" in the 1940s. It has to start somewhere, for a designer to revolutionize trends, one has to go futuristic. 

Ironically, the way these dresses are formed reminds you of the Jetson's cartoon. Specifically Judy Jetson. 1960s interpretation of what the late 21st Century would look like. Eerie coincidence or educated prediction?

Thank you, Janne for shedding some light and provoking thought, as always. Please visit her fab online store; www.jannesvintage.com 

You won't be disappointed!

For more eye-candy:
Mary-Katrantzou

A Label Love Affair

Vintage dress labels. So much can be told about the garment when one is present. Often they will name the state/ country even specific town or department store.  Many times the font used can be a fair indicator of age.  Font stylus is an important factor in culture, by simply comparing the font used one may be able to successfully identify an era. Cross-referencing vintage adverts, magazines and other garments will expand your knowledge of typeface.

photo courtesy of Vintage Fashion Guild

photo courtesy of Circa Vintage

Here are two examples of Lilli Diamond labels. Can you guess which one is older?

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If you guessed the one on the left.. you are correct! This one is from a 50s- early 60s dress and the one on the right is an early 1970s dress. While the general style of the font is similar, this company graduated their font to appeal to the era. 

SIZE

Labels increased in size during the 1960s due to greater awareness of the importance of advertising. 

LABEL QUALITY

Labels are also a good indicator of quality, this has really not changed today. Labels by top fashion houses, department stores or couture designers will most often be more substantial; more involved than a label of a dress from the local five-and dime or small dressmaker. 

photo courtesy of Circa Vintage

photo courtesy of Circa Vintage

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(Left) A label from a 1950s day dress of lesser quality than the label to the (Right) This label is also a  1950s- era day dress of similar style.

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Many women sewed and tailored their own dresses 40+ years ago so a lot of times a label will not be present in a garment. Please don't use label identification as the only means of dating a piece, but it can be a helpful (and interesting!) factor. 

I wonder

I came across this photo of a class from the year 1936. Adorable little ones, aren't they? Pondering... what did these children grow up to be? Where did they plant their lives? How many are still alive?

Today, most of them would be in their 80s.  What were their lives like? Were they happy, healthy, successful? Lonely, sick, struggled with lifelong demons? Here, at age 10 they appear coy, some cheeky, playful and maybe oblivious to the enormity of the great depression.  Being children.

History of the Wedding Dress

Your wedding day. The day when the everyday girl who's normal attire is jeans-and-a-T-shirt is adorned to the max in pearls, lace, organza, tulle, rhinestones, veils and something old/something blue. However, the wedding dress as we know it today is a fairly modern invention.

Royal weddings set forth in Medieval times were arranged to seal alliances between countries and brides were dressed in fabrics such as velvet, fur, lamé threads, heavy damasks and silks. She was draped in the most expensive fabrics to make a regal impression of prestige. In addition, dresses were often sewn with precious stones such as saphirres, rubies, diamonds and pearls! Skirts were gathered and full; arms would sweep the floor and trains were a dozen feet long. Only the wealthy could afford dyes in black, purple and red; the bride's attire would be in these colors!

Of course, most brides were not from royalty and would not be dressed so elaborately. A noblewoman of the upper middle class would copy dresses from A princess and use a lesser quantity of those novelty fabrics and only adorn the collar with jewels. A middle class bride would use less expensive fabrics such as velevet or satin and the poor bride's dress would have been much simpler and sewn out of linnen or wool but still more elaborate than her everyday dress. She would then wear it for her best Sunday dress for the rest of her life.

Why do brides wear white? It was not fashionable for brides to wear white until the late 19th Century. Until then, blue was the most important color for a bride to wear because that color was associated with the Virgin Mary and was a symbol of purity. Brides who wore blue believed that their husbands would always be true to them! (thus, "something Blue.") Pink was another popular wedding gown color because it symbolized youth and was worn primarily during May weddings.


Queen Victoria's all white wedding gown in 1840 popularized the white wedding dress many women follow today. Contrary to the wide belief that white symbolizes the bride's purity; white is intended to symbolize the celebration of a union. The intricacy of the bride's dress increased with social class. A bride of a lower class would sew temporary decorations such as lace, ribbon and bows on a white dress; during the festivities these decorations were pulled off by guests and saved for souvenirs or wedding favors and that dress would become part of her wardrobe for years to come. Even women of the higher social classes would wear her dress again on special occasions.

Just wanted to share my latest love. A gorgeous black suede handbag, circa 1950s. Amber lucite clasp. Mint condition, lipstick pouch on the inside, wait til you see the label below.
This is the stuff dreams are made of.

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Oh! And it's for sale.
HERE

Coco

Thank you, Gabrielle, "Coco" Chanel. Thank you for re-inventing the modern woman. You were fighting an uphill battle when you introduced the little black dress in the 1920s. Black was for mourning; grieving. In a time when it was unheard of to don a hemline higher than your calfs, you called for change, for comfort. Your kind of lady did not want to be restricted. Your kind of woman had ideas, desired change and resisted fashion privation. You were looking forward.

The 20th Century- your century- we saw the most progression in women's fashion. In each decade there was something never seen before. Before you, yes there were variations in fashion- seeming to be the pattern du jor on the same length skirt- over and over and over... hairstyles came and went, leg of mutton sleeves versus Juliette, not so many options.

Oddly enough, now in the 21st century; it seems fashion houses have exhausted new designs. Not that it's a bad thing, styles now are just being recycled from previous times; added to, taken away from, re-formed. What is old is forever new again. There will always be your "little black dress," just more or less of it. Embellished or stripped down.

If it weren't for your vision, would the oppression of women still be going on? No, no, surely another heroine would have come along. But it was you. Instinctively, you had your finger on the cultural pulse of your time, you designed what women dreamed of. You are so much more than your label. So much more than a designer.

Discovering Gucci

Being a vintage store owner you can expect to also pratice these professions; Seamstress, Curator, Historian, Librarian, Archeologist... among others. For this particular item I have been playing the Archeologist card. Quite heavily.

I recently came across this set of 6 Gucci Cocktail Glasses. What is special about these is a) Gucci no longer produces housewares (so when did they cease?) b) They come with the original box and packaging and c) These beauties have never been used, some never unwrapped. SO, my journey continues....

After a fruitless online search to find any info on glassware and comparables, I am resorting the Gucci Museo.

Stay tuned for an update.. how rare is rare?